Monday 3 September 2012

Mallaig, Morar and Knoydart 18-27 August

18 August

Arrived in |Mallaig some 7 hours after leaving Edinburgh after an eventful bus journey including 2 breakdowns and a change of bus at Fort William. Eventually arrived in Mallaig about 4pm and after dropping our stuff at Mallaig backpackers we set off on a circular walk around the harbour via Mallaigmore back to the village.

The village was buzzing with tourists and we were glad to escape the crowds to go on our walk which took us to the little hamlet of Mallaigmore which is just a mile or so outside the village and has great views over Loch Ness to Knoydart.  It was pleasant and sunny and we were surprised to see that Mallaigmore was full of new houses as when we walked here some 12 years ago there were something like 2 houses!  Obviously a favourite spot for building.

Stopping for a rest just above the hamlet we were rewarded wqith a sighting of 2 golden eagles soaring above the nearby cliffs so off to a great start wildlife wise!  Further on we stopped to take in the views over to Skye and the small isles of Eigg and Rum as well as the comings and goings in the harbour.  As we descended a small sheltered glen back to the village we spotted lots of butterflies and a few dragonflies buzzing about and the lush vegetation was obviously an attraction to them as they were everywhere.

After our evening meal we went for a walk south of the village to a local lochan which just had a new path built to it so it was an easy stroll there and back again and we saw a number of birds, butterflies and dragonflies and there was hardly a soul about.  Great views of Rum and Eigg on the way back.

19 August

After a bit of a restless night in the hostel due to noisy drunks outside and some torrential rain we awoke to an overcast but mild day and after breakfast set out to do another local walk by retracing our steps to the circular walk but doing a longer walk over the hills to another local lochan which was about a 7 mile circular.  We did not see too much wildlife on this walk apart from the now customary butterflies and dragonfliesbut as a consolation the day brightened up and the sun came out for us once again.  The midges were a bit of a pain but we managed to escape without too many bites and made our way back to the village via the old road where we saw lots of birds in people's gardens including finches and starlings.

In the evening we took a stroll around the harbour and got some pictures of local seals and the views.  Dolphins are known to play in the harbour here but we did not spot any tonight despite it being a nice calm evening.

20 August

After breakfast in the Hostel we showered and packed up and awaited our bus down the road to Morar where we had hired a caravan for a few weeks. The caravan was at the side of the owners' B&B so we immediately closed the curtains and got down to some business!

Today turned out not to be such a good day with the weather and there was some torrential downpours so we decided to stay in the caravan for the afternoon. However after making our tea the rain went off so we went out for a stroll on the local beaches including Camusdarroch beach where the film 'Local Hero' was shot - Ben's shack was right at the end of the beach!  We took a stroll around some of the other beaches too and saw a few seabirds and a couple of buzzards and also got some nice sunset pictures so a good end to a frustrating day with the weather.

21 August

A bit of a cloudy start today but it brightened up quite a bit by the time we set off on a properly planned expedition.  We startred off along the old road past the Silver |Sands of Morar heading for Loch Morar. We reached the loch by about 10am and spoke to a local boatman to enquire about boat hire and he informed us that it was available through a local man. After walking a few miles to the end of the road we stopped at a lovely grassy bay where, we were to find out later, the film 'RobRoy' with Jessica Lange and Liam Neeson wass filmed.  I had commented that Loch Morar looked very like Loch Lomond with its wooded islands and apparently that was why the movie was shot here. The scenery and panoramic views on this lovely sunny day were absolutely amazing and it was just a privelege to be here.  Our route took us along the side of the loch and once again the butterflies and dragonflies were out in force and so, unfortunately, were the midges!

Our target was Tarbert over on Loch Nevis and we got there with time to spare before the ferry back to Mallaig came in so we had time to look around and discovered that the old church here had been turned into a bothy for walkers and backpackers.  After a brief look around we went across the bay to the jetty to board the Mallaig ferry.  The ferry actually doubled as a boat trip along Loch Nevis in pleasant conditions and spotted seals, herons and lots of other birds.

21 August

Another nice day today but also some brief but heavy downpours.  we went for some local walks around the local beaches at Camusdarroch and spotted lots of birds including gulls, plovers, herons and gannets. Great views over to Eigg and Rum - one of my favourite views in the whole of Scotland! After going for our mealback at caravan we went out later for an evening walk and got some nice sunset views over to the isles.

22 August

We were up early and heading for Loch Morar as we had hired a boat for the morning to boat around the islands.  It turned out a lovely morning by this point and our trip over to the islands was incident free as the loch was nice and calm.  Our first island had no jetty so we boated in to the shore and had a quick look around but it was tricky to walk about as there were no paths and lots of bracken as well as midges!  On to island 2 and a nice sandy bay awaited us as well as lots of midges!!  After another brief look around we were off again to the next wooded island which had a nice jetty and as we approached it we saw quite a few herons perched on it but they soon flew off as we approached.  This island seemed a bit biggern than the others with a couple of paths so we followed them for a bit but lost them in the ferns.  This island seemed to have a lot of birds on it and we saw lots of small birds and heard herons screeching above the trees.  The local man who hired the boat told us that a sea eagle had nested here in the past and fed on the herons! The sun was still shining as we left the island and headed back to the pier.  A nice trip on a lovely day!

It was by now early afternoon and we headed for a walk along the road up to a high viewpoint overlooking the loch.  A local woman had a wee craft shack next to her house so we went in for a blether with her and she told us her husband had written a local history book and would we like it signed for us!  After getting our copy the kind lady then offered to give us a lift into Morar where we got a lovely Thai meal carryout from a local takeaway and proceeded to eat it on the benches in Morar station!!  Delicious! After this we walked around to the silver sands and then around the coast to Camusdarroch - a very enjoyable day.

August 24

We were on the move today with a taxi to Mallaig with our stuff and then on to the Knoydart ferry heading for inverie.  It was another nice day on this cruise round to Loch Nevis and on the way we saw porpoise and seals as well as numerous seabirds.  Arrived at inverie pier about 11am and went for a brief walk around the village and had a quick chat with the local ranger about walks etc.  After this we walked along to our accommodation which was a local hostel.  After booking in we went for a walk naround the local area and spotted a few stags up in the hills.  After our evening meal we went out again to a local wildlife hide where we hoped to spot an otter but basically spotted a few midges!

August 25

A nice day dawned as we set off to do a huge circular walk of about 20 miles around the coast through the settlements of Sandaig, Doune and Airor and then around the coast and back through the hills to Inverie.  It was a lovely day with gfreat views of Skye and the Small Isles followed by great views over Loch Hourn to Camusferna aka Gavin Maxwell and otter country.There was a small river that we had to cross and it was a bit tricky but an adventure as all the stones were very slippy so it needed careful navigation!! A fantastic day out and a great walk done in lovely weather.

August 26

Another sunny day although it had been raining at night.  We set off up the back of the village to do a
walk of about 8 miles to a local waterfall beauty spot.  The walk was done in lovely warm sunshine and we spottede a couple of Golden Eagles soaring overhead as we made our way up  to the waterfall which was running down from a col between Ladar Bheinn, a munro mountain, and another hill classed as a Corbett. The  stroll back down to the village was lovely as a nice breeze got up and cooled us down.  Rounded off our visit to Knoydart with a meal and some drinks in the Old Forge pub which was heaving!!
The next day was not so nice with rain and wind but we didnt care as we were heading home and after a long day got back about 8pm.

3 comments:

  1. Very Informative post.Looks like you both enjoyed yourselves.I,ve Kayaked round the islands in Loch Morar many years ago.
    Still think including a few photos would make your blog better for anyone looking at it though:)

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  2. Bob thanks for comments, I am going to try and get a few photos on to the blog! Spreading the word about @Blue Skies' as I showed it to an interested party on the bus on the way to Fort William on my smartphone!

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  3. Cheers Hunter.
    I,m writing a book at the moment and its going fairly well so fingers crossed I,ll find a publisher.Put it this way.Its already better and funnier than blueskyscotland.Keep that to yourself though.

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